ampersandology: film. culture. words.

Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Friday, May 25, 2012

Busby Berkeley Dreams

by Jillian Butler, Ampersandology

Editor's note: I'm presenting a paper on Busby Berkeley at a conference this week, so thought I'd shake this one off in his honour. Enjoy! 


Look, I know. But I can’t help but name it—I got a thing for the chorus girl.



It keeps popping up in my fiction, a stutter of a motif. It’s my own regrettable nostalgia, mostly wrapped up in what it conveyed rather than what it really was—the yesteryears of the enigmatic dancing girl, guileless in her power over men and brightly smiling under the stage lights. But it was never true, really. It's a hyperreal performance of womanhood, never the real thing. 

Have you seen these creatures? They’re unreal. Smiles glued to their lips, pushing their uniform bodies through space. They're girlish little women, or else womanly girls. Do they have an inner life, their own agency? You'd never guess.


Their kind echo throughout history—the swaying hips of the burlesque, the eternal girlchild of Victorian soap ads, the dazzling performance of femaleness of the Hollywood chorus girl. Eternally young and appropriately blank. 


But dancing girls exist only as a collective noun: who ever talks about one dancing girl? They only exist together; when dispersed, the effect evaporates. And so they travel in packs, trapped in the forgiving limitations of the evening show. Rather than stand alone, the dancing girls are the seams in the self-contained logic of their musical numbers.

From LIFE magazine, 1958. 
Dispel your misplaced notion that these women a) really want to be up there on stage and b) are just delighted to be dancing for you—yes, you!—as they kick, twirl, gesture and hoof in perfect uniformity, trained within an inch of their life to follow the next. Dancing until they die--or turn 35, whatever happens first.

*

Busby Berkeley’s girls, meanwhile, didn’t even need that much: “I never cared whether a girl knew her right foot from her left,” he once said, “so long as she was beautiful.”

Footlight Parade, 1933

Berkeley, a man made famous by his unmistakable configurations of the female form in abstract space, was alarmingly unsentimental when faced with the legions of pretty girls that built his legacy. He’s not the first, either: look to the 1884 Electric Girl Company, a business model that supplied young girls whose bodies were outfitted in electric lights and ornaments. They were used for parties or as waitresses for the crop of modernity-obsessed restaurants, the perfect melding of technology and the human (female) body.

Then followed the usual suspects: the Rockettes, in the 1920s; Earl Carroll’s vaudeville revue “Vanities”; circus peep shows; burlesque shows that slowly showed more and more skin.

There is something beyond surreal in these chorus lines—the faces of these pretty young women, rather than approach uniformity, disturb me in the ways they are dissimilar; in other words, I am perturbed by the idea that I’m supposed to blend them all together and marvel at their sameness, as if someone in the costuming department expected the matching wigs and thematic outfits would erase anything unique or special about everything contained therein.

Earl Carroll was the creator of vaudeville’s “Vanities”, a precursor to the Berkeley chorus girl by more than a few years, had his own philosophy on the Platonic nature of these chorus lines:

“The following points of beauty are given careful consideration: color and texture of hair, brilliancy and size of eyes, regularity of teeth, general coloring, texture of skin, formation of hands and feet, posture and personality...”

But not even these high standards could always be met, as Carroll went on to note:

“There are times (and this was particularly true during the war) when it was necessary to engage girls who do not have all the necessary qualifications. We replace them when it is possible.”

There exists, if you’re curious, a record of the measurements of the “ideal chorine.” Gals, break out your measuring tapes—or, you know, roll your eyes. So the ideal chorus girl has:

-a six-inch wrist
-a twelve inch neck
-a nineteen and a half thigh
-a nine inch ankle.

Not to mention the highest standard of personal grooming. Rather than be repulsed at the blatant sexism on display here, I'm kind of charmed. I mean, they must have had their reasons, right? You can't blame anyone for having standards, even if those standards codify the female form into the gender expectations of an ice cube tray. 

Oh, wait. Never mind. I just remembered Berkeley’s stated goal when casting new chorus girls: his hope was that all the girls would be of uniform size, talent and comeliness—“just like pearls.”



Have a suggestion for a future Ampersandology topic? Got something you’d like to say? All feedback welcome! Shoot us an email at ampersandology@gmail.com, or follow Ampersandology on Facebook

Friday, July 30, 2010

Life Goal #52




by Jillian Butler, Ampersandology

Life Goal #52: Acquire an ultra-fierce Doctor Zhivago hat to let loose my inner Sharif.


Status: Thanks, grandma's attic! I will now look like the Russian poet/doctor hybrid I always secretly believed I was. I'll rule this side of the Neva River, AND THEN SOME.

Will I ever stop loving this over-long, kind of not good film? No. The answer is simply no.


Have a suggestion for a future Ampersandology topic? Got something you’d like to say? All feedback welcome! Shoot us an email at ampersandology@gmail.com, or follow Ampersandology on Facebook

Sunday, May 23, 2010

The Uniform Project





by Jillian Butler, Ampersandology

In May of last year, a girl named Sheena undertook a remarkable and undeniably stylish fundraiser...the Uniform Project. From her website: 



Starting May 2009, I have pledged to wear one dress for one year as an exercise in sustainable fashion. Here’s how it works: There are 7 identical dresses, one for each day of the week. Every day I will reinvent the dress with layers, accessories and all kinds of accouterments, the majority of which will be vintage, hand-made, or hand-me-down goodies. Think of it as wearing a daily uniform with enough creative license to make it look like I just crawled out of the Marquis de Sade's boudoir.
The Uniform Project is also a year-long fundraiser for the Akanksha Foundation, a grassroots movement that is revolutionizing education in India. At the end of the year, all contributions will go toward Akanksha’s School Project to fund uniforms and other educational expenses for children living in Indian slums.
The Uniforms in Action:  


Uniform Project Picture Book from The Uniform Project on Vimeo.



Who says charity can't be chic? 






Have a suggestion for a future Ampersandology topic? Got something you’d like to say? All feedback welcome! Shoot us an email at ampersandology@gmail.com, or follow Ampersandology on Facebook

Monday, May 11, 2009

My TYPE of Bag...HAHA Hello Witsville.

Uh, hi. So this is basically the most perfect thing ever: a leather bag NOT ONLY embossed with the Didot typeface BUT IS ADDITIONALLY big enough to carry books, magazines and a complete change of clothes (more or less my only requirements for a bag). 



It's only $450. By 'only,' of course, you understand that my scale of comparison includes a major home renovation or a Presidential Inauguration. Then, $450 sounds like a discount. A relief even! 

The Theme from A Summer Place is playing non-stop in my head. DO YOU KNOW WHAT THIS MEANS? IT MEANS TRUE(ish) LOVE. 

Quite frankly, I have never known a fever so single-minded, so blindingly bright. This purse combines my three greatest loves: typography, fashion AND spending money like a drunken sailor on leave! It must be mine. 

Everyone, we're starting a letter-writing campaign. To get me this purse. No matter the cost.*


*Excluding, of course, any actual cost. 

Monday, November 17, 2008

Please don't forsake me; I know not what I do.


Gossip Girl's Chace Crawford (NAAATE!) took Grazia's Guy Fashion Quiz and failed like the adorable little manpie he is. He thinks beige is the in color for fall...and that it's dark! Well, I can't lie. That's...that's the most darling thing I've heard all day. Beige for fall! Oh, Chace. That's not right at all! Boys don't know clothes, you guys! Isn't that something?!? At the 2:13 mark, when he gets so happy about knowing the difference between a wedge and a stiletto? It's just too much adorableness for me to handle. Stop asking her to repeat the questions, Chace; you're not going to get them right plus she only wants to make out later behind the cafeteria (AND MAYBE MORE...?!?) so quite frankly you're wasting her time!

To be fair, the only fashion question he needs to know the answer to is "Will you please take off your shirt now, Chace?" And the correct answer is, "Yes." I can say that because in real life he's the same age as me, not like in the show, when he's like, sixteen. So it's not pervy. Oh yeah? Well, SO IS YOUR FACE. Anyway. I don't even know why I watched this clip in the first place; I was so confused because I still totally don't watch Gossip Girl (omgiloveyounaaate! butnotasmuchaschuuuuck!). 

Oooooohhhhh no

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

this just in! Louis Vuitton makes age irrelevant to hotness



Mr. Connery, I must admit: I am INTRIGUED. 

Oh, but you do have a way about you, even after all these years and that stupid hat. And the pants rolled up...what a coy reference to your septuagenarian charms! 

Shave that stupid 'stache and we'll talk.



a call to fabulous action

Ooh, things like this just give me ideas. 


Some thoughts: 

1. I love that the high-waisted turn is proving to be more of a callback than a 
trend; unlike most fads, I think this one is super flattering, evocative and painfully chic. There were some big names staying on board: I saw Yves Saint Laurent, Celine and Valentino! The wayI see it, anything that reminds me of 1940s screwball comedies is a good thing (ANYTHING: feel free to test me on this, I'll hold true). I always feel like a hybrid of Katherine Hepburn and Joan Holloway in my own high-waisted pieces. 

2. Who is this Byblos and where can I find more? 

3. Designers! Give ME your clothes for free! My God, think of the public relations possibilities, when you eschew all typical celebrity-smoozing and give back to the people! And by people I mean only me! I can make many lists that will be so painfully, beautifully worded that you will be compelled to reward me with couture. Barring that, I will cry on cue! It would be like charity except chic. Exactly.


LinkWithin

Related Posts with Thumbnails